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When it comes to training your dog, it’s really important that you master the human side of things. When you ace the human skills, training your dog will become easier for both you and your dog.  

Let’s explore the dog training techniques that will supercharge your dog training, delivering you faster results and clarity on how to train your dog effectively. 

Management: Preventing your dog from practicing things you don’t want them to do!

Dogs learn really quickly to repeat things that work and rapidly develop habits that are difficult to change. Management comes in many forms, but they all share one common purpose, to prevent your dog from practising undesirable behaviors. 

If your dog has started to practice behavior that you don’t want, such as counter surfing, bolting out the door, or jumping up at people, you will need to put suitable management in place to prevent things escalating. 

The sooner you can do this, the easier training an alternative behavior will be.

Management can be training tools such as pens or crates to create a safe space for your dog and prevent access to certain areas of your home. 

You can also use baby gates at doorways to avoid your dog escaping when visitors arrive. These are great for managing interactions with people. 

Long lines can be used when teaching your dog a reliable recall, so they don’t run off to exciting distractions. 

Put things away that you don’t want your dog to get hold of and they won’t practise chewing or running off with your favorite shoes! 

Provide plenty of toys and chew items to engage with and provide outlets to make sure your dog can engage in activities that make them happy.  

Teaching a new behavior to your dog

There are many options for teaching your dog a new behavior. A few options are: 

  • Luring
  • Targeting
  • Shaping
  • Capturing

When training your dog, you’ll likely use a combination of methods. It’s a great idea to practice each technique and see what works best for you and your dog. You’ll probably find different methods will get you quicker results depending on what you’re training. 

Luring

Luring is where you use food to show your dog what you’d like them to do, then rewarding them with the treat when they get it right. This is a simple but effective way to build behavior quickly, and it’s fun for your dog. 

Start by holding a treat between your thumb and fingers. Then, show your dog the treat, and move it slowly away from their nose, as they follow it by moving their body. Be sure to keep it close to your dog’s nose and if the gap widens at any point, bring the food closer and move more slowly. 

You’ll want to mark and reward your dog every step to begin with. 

Then you can build up to lengthening the distance your dog will happily follow the lure before you reward them.

It’s important to know that when luring, your dog can become really fixated on the food. This can sometimes overshadow the behavior you’re trying to teach. 

If you want your dog to eventually do the behavior without food in your hand, it’s important to fade out the food lure as soon as possible. So, after a couple of repetitions of learning the behavior with food, repeat the action without food in your hand. Your dog will follow as before, and you can mark and reward them with food from your pocket or treat pouch instead. 

This will teach your dog that even though they can’t see the food, they will still be rewarded for their efforts. This builds trust and helps keep your dog motivated to work with you.

Targeting

Teaching your dog to target your hand or other objects with their nose is great for keeping your dog’s attention around distractions or building more advanced behaviors later. 

To start with, present a flat hand towards your dog and wait for them to investigate. Mark and reward as soon as their nose makes contact with your hand. 

If your dog struggles initially, you can always rub a treat on your hands to get them interested and to help them succeed. 

After a few repetitions, hold your hand further away, so your dog has to take a step to make contact. Practice in all directions and with both hands, so your dog understands all the variations. 

From here, you can start to create a moving target by continuing to move your hand as your dog is approaching. This is a critical step if you want to use hand targeting to teach your dog behaviors in the future. 

When your dog has mastered the art of nose targeting, you’ll be able to teach follow-on behaviors, including peekaboo, stand and paws up.

Shaping

Shaping is great for getting your dog to think for themselves and build confidence. But dogs can become frustrated if the incremental steps are too big or they’re used to being shown what to do.

Shaping involves gradually teaching your dog a new behavior by rewarding them for every little step in the right direction. You want to have a behavior in mind and a rough idea of the steps needed to get there. 

When your dog offers something close to the desired behavior, you mark and reward.  If they offer something that is further from it, you don’t reward. 

At every step, your dog is learning what works and what doesn’t work. Natural variation in their actions means you can start to shape and hone the behavior until your dog can do the final desired action.

Before beginning a shaping session, plan out the probable steps to take you to the end goal. Start with something your dog can do easily and build up in logical steps to the finished behavior. 

Capturing

Capturing is great for rewarding naturally offered behavior. Catch your dog doing something you like, and reward! 

For capturing to be an effective training method, your dog needs to naturally offer the behavior frequently. 

As you train new behaviors with your dog, think about which method will be best in each situation. Practice using each of the methods so that you and your dog have multiple options when it comes to building new skills. 

Marker training 

Getting the timing of your marker right when you mark and reward is essential to your dog training success. 

You want to mark and reward your dog at the exact moment when they’re doing the thing you’re asking of them. Too soon and your dog hasn’t done the behavior yet, but too late and your dog is doing something else entirely.

Reward Placement

When it comes to building behavior, reward placement has a huge impact, but is often overlooked. Where and how you reward your dog will impact the final behavior you build significantly. 

For example, if you’re teaching your dog to run to their bed and lay down, you might choose to reward your dog on their bed. This will help to build value for being on the bed, serve to build calmness and keep your dog in position for duration, particularly if you give multiple rewards one after the other. 

Alternatively, you might choose to reward your dog away from the bed after getting into position. 

This has the benefit of setting your dog up for another repetition but also results in energizing your dog, which can cause them to move more quickly into position. 

There’s no right or wrong way, both are perfectly valid and will teach your dog the behavior but the detail of the finished behavior will be shaped by the choices you make. 

Another example of reward placement and shaping behavior is loose lead walking.

When you choose to reward your dog and where, will affect how close to you they walk, whether they’re in front or behind and if they stay to your side or cut across in front of you as you move. 

It’s also possible to mark for a behavior in one location, but reward them in a different place. 

For example, when working on your recall training, you might first mark when your dog turns to look at you, but then offer the reward right in front of you to further build the behavior. 

If you repeat this several times, your dog will start to move towards you as they check in, because the placement of the reward drives the behavior of moving closer to you. 

Improving your awareness of reward placement will massively help you when it comes to teaching your dog new behaviors.

The Art of Treat Delivery

Being able to skillfully give your dog a treat in the right location, quickly and without dropping food to the floor, can take a bit of practice to get right. Investing time to improve your own dexterity will help you level up your skills and make training your dog much easier. 

Practice without your dog first.  Take several treats in your hand, and put one down into a cup. Continue until you’ve placed out all of the treats. Practice with both hands and even time yourself to see how quickly you can accurately deliver 10 treats, one after the other. 

Next, place your treats in a small bowl right next to the hand you are going to use to deliver the treats. This bowl will represent your treat pouch. Practice going from bowl (next to you) to delivering the treat into a cup and then bringing your hands back to your default position. Again, practice with both hands and to make this even more challenging you can change the delivery from a cup to a placing the treats into a bottle.

When you’re doing really well with this, it’s time to add your dog into the equation. 

Start with your dog in front of you and practice rewarding treats one at a time from your closest hand. Remember to bring your hand back to your default position between treats. When you have this mastered, you can start to practice on the move with your dog. 

Putting in the time to master your treat delivery will make it second nature when it comes to training together.

Adding distraction duration and distance 

Once you’ve taught your dog a behavior, you’ll want to make sure that you continue to scale up the difficulty over time if you want your dog to be able to reliably offer behavior in any situation. 

When you’re ready to progress your training there are three areas you can focus on: distraction, duration, and distance.

To set your dog up for success, it’s important to only increase the difficulty in one of these areas at a time. 

Practice getting your dog to do behaviors they know well as people or dogs walk by, vehicles drive past or around other distractions

Keep an eye on your dog’s body language and if you notice them getting worried or excited, increase your distance from the distraction. 

You can also work on building up your dog’s ability to remain in a chosen position for a longer duration. Initially this might be a few seconds, but you can gradually increase the duration so that your dog is able to settle on a blanket throughout family meal time, or to sit at a busy crossroads until it’s safe to cross.

Distance can relate to how far away you move from your dog while they remain in position, or how far away you are from your dog when you cue them. 

In both cases, build up in small increments so that your dog is successful. As always, remember to take things at your dog’s pace, keep training sessions short and have fun!

Teaching a release cue

Teaching your dog a release cue is really valuable. This is a short word, sound or signal that lets your dog know the task they’re doing is finished and they can do something else. 

You can use it to let your dog know they can move out of a position, go through a door. say hello to friends, have their food or go sniff and explore on a walk. 

You can teach this by asking your dog to go to a position they know really well, like sit or down. After they’ve been in position for a couple of seconds say your chosen release cue, (like okay or free), and immediately cue them to get and toss a treat away for your dog to chase. 

You want to make sure your dog hears the release word before they hear ‘get’.  

As you practice, start to delay the prompt to get by a second or two. Give your dog time to think! 

In time, your dog will start to associate the two words and will get up when you say the release, without you needing to prompt them to get. 

When this happens, celebrate and reward your dog enthusiastically. From here on, say only the release cue and wait for your dog to move before marking and rewarding. 

You can proof your dog’s release word by adding in distractions and rewarding your dog if they don’t move when you haven’t said their release cue. 

Also, practice words that don’t mean anything to your dog and reward them for staying still until you say the release cue. Practice until your dog is brilliant at holding their position or waiting in different situations until you release them. 

In Conclusion

So there you have our top dog training tips and tricks to help you nail your dog training exercises. Happy practicing!

For more dog training advice and support, follow us on Facebook or Instagram and we’ll share plenty more nuggets of gold to help you and your dog to thrive. 

Creating a Puppy Schedule and Routine: The Secret to a Happy, Well-Behaved Dog

Bringing home a new puppy is one of the most exciting — and overwhelming — experiences you’ll ever have. Between potty training, naps, playtime, and socialization, your puppy depends on you to bring structure to their brand-new world. One of the most powerful tools you can give your pup from day one is a consistent schedule and routine.

What Is a Puppy Schedule?

A puppy schedule is a predictable daily rhythm that includes set times for meals, potty breaks, naps, play, training, and bedtime. Just like children, puppies thrive on knowing what to expect. A routine helps them learn faster, feel secure, and settle into family life with confidence.

A typical day for a young puppy might include:

  • Morning potty break right after waking up

  • Breakfast, followed by a short play session or walk

  • Nap time in their crate or pen

  • Midday potty break and lunch

  • Play, training, or socialization time

  • Dinner and evening potty walk

  • Quiet time and bedtime routine around the same time each night

Why It’s Important

A consistent routine teaches your puppy how to behave by helping them predict what happens next.

  • Supports house training: Predictable potty breaks reduce accidents.

  • Encourages calm behavior: Regular naps prevent overstimulation and biting from fatigue.

  • Builds confidence: Puppies feel safer when life feels predictable.

  • Makes training easier: When puppies know when to rest, eat, and play, they can focus better during lessons.

  • Strengthens your bond: Daily repetition builds trust and communication between you and your puppy.

When routines are inconsistent, puppies can become anxious, overexcited, or confused about expectations. A structured day sets the foundation for a lifetime of good habits and harmony.

How to Create a Routine That Works

  1. Start Simple – Map out your day and match your puppy’s needs to your lifestyle. Puppies under 5 months need to go potty every 2–3 hours, nap often, and have short bursts of activity.

  2. Use Visual Reminders – Write your puppy’s schedule on a whiteboard, planner, or fridge chart. Consistency among family members is key.

  3. Anchor Key Moments – Keep wake-up, mealtime, and bedtime consistent. Build everything else (training, play, walks) around those anchor points.

  4. Balance Activity and Rest – Puppies need 16–18 hours of sleep per day! Alternate 30–60 minutes of awake time with naps.

  5. Include Mental Enrichment – Add puzzle feeders, sniff walks, and short training games into the day to meet your puppy’s need for mental stimulation.

  6. Adjust as They Grow – Your schedule should evolve as your puppy matures. Potty breaks get longer, naps get shorter, and more training time can be added.

Daily Routine Ideas for Your Puppy

Mix & Match Activities to Fit Your Schedule

Every puppy — and every family — has a different rhythm. The key to raising a happy, confident dog is giving your puppy the right balance of physical exercise, mental stimulation, social experiences, and training. Think of these categories as puzzle pieces that make up your puppy’s ideal day.

You don’t need to do everything every day. Instead, pick one or two ideas from each category and rotate them throughout the week. The variety keeps your puppy engaged and prevents boredom, frustration, and unwanted behaviors.


1. Physical Enrichment

Helps burn energy, build coordination, and satisfy natural instincts like chasing, tugging, and digging.

  • Fetch

  • Play date with other dogs

  • Flirt pole play

  • Urban agility (using benches, curbs, playgrounds, etc.)

  • Hide & seek

  • Swimming

  • Sniffari (a slow, sniff-focused walk)

  • Digging area or sandbox

  • Tug

  • Frisbee

  • Soccer with a soft ball

How to use: Schedule one or two physical activities during your puppy’s awake times. Keep sessions short and fun (5–10 minutes for young pups). Physical play helps your dog release energy appropriately so they’re calm at home.


2. Mental Enrichment

Exercises your puppy’s brain and builds problem-solving skills — a tired mind is a happy mind.

  • Tearing up a box

  • Ball pit fun

  • Food puzzles or snuffle mats

  • ACE Free Work (choice-based exploration)

  • Scavenger hunt for treats

  • Treat Tournament

  • Muffin tin game

  • Frozen Kong or lick mat

  • Trash bag game

  • Paper towel roll challenge

  • DIY enrichment crafts

How to use: Offer one or two mental games daily, especially when you can’t provide as much physical activity. These activities reduce frustration, promote independence, and make alone time more peaceful.

To learn more about enrichment, check out our blog- CLICK HERE


3. Training (During Meal Time)

Turns everyday feeding into mini lessons that teach manners and focus.

  • Loose leash walking position

  • Harness & leash on/off practice

  • Collar/harness grab

  • Recall (“Come!”)

  • “Go to…” (place, mat, crate, etc.)

  • “Get” or “Find it” games

  • “Which one?” choice games

  • Target training (hand, object, or mat)

  • Trick training

  • Polite greetings

  • Sit, down, stay, settle on a mat

  • Front & back door manners

  • Paws up / paws off

  • Paw target to hand or object

  • Shake, pull it, take it, drop, leave it

How to use: Use a portion of your puppy’s meal as rewards during 5–10-minute sessions. Training through mealtime builds focus, patience, and communication while keeping your puppy mentally sharp.


4. Socialization & Exposure

Builds confidence and prevents fear during the critical early learning window (8–16 weeks, and beyond).

  • Explore new environments

  • Make a DIY obstacle course at home

  • Visit public places (store fronts, sidewalks)

  • Play sound desensitization tracks

  • Introduce water in a positive way

  • Gentle grooming and handling

  • Cooperative care practice (touching paws, ears, teeth)

  • Visit parks or sit near dog parks (observe only)

  • Field trip to a school or café

  • Car rides

  • Watch kids playing (at a safe distance)

  • Grocery or hardware store parking lots

How to use: Choose calm, positive environments and keep sessions short. Always pair new experiences with treats and praise. The goal is to create good first impressions, not to overwhelm.

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Puppy Socialization

Early Puppy Socialization Is Essential—not just a nice-to-have, but a critical piece of raising a well-adjusted, confident dog. In fact, most behavior issues seen in adult dogs stem from missed or incomplete socialization during the early weeks of life.

If you’re a new puppy parent, it’s important to understand why early puppy socialization is essential to your dog’s lifelong health and happiness. From preventing fear-based behaviors to building emotional resilience, early puppy socialization is essential for setting your pup up for success in our human world.

To learn more about Puppy Socialization, check out this blog.
CLICK HERE

5. Training Concepts to Reinforce Every Day

These are the core emotional skills that shape a dog’s behavior for life.

  • Confidence

  • Calmness

  • Flexibility (adapting to change)

  • Focus

  • Independence

  • Proximity (comfort staying near you)

  • Self-control

  • Problem solving

How to use: Every game, walk, or cuddle time is an opportunity to strengthen one of these concepts. For example, waiting at the door teaches self-control, sniff walks build confidence, and trick training improves focus.


Putting It All Together

Build your puppy’s day like this:

  • Morning: Potty break, breakfast training, short walk

  • Midday: Nap, mental enrichment game, social outing

  • Afternoon: Physical play, crate rest, calm chew

  • Evening: Short training session, dinner, quiet cuddle time

Consistency matters, but flexibility keeps it fun. As your puppy grows, you’ll notice what type of activities tire them out most — that’s your cue to adjust and evolve their schedule.

Sample Daily Puppy Schedule & Routine

(Use this as a flexible guide and adjust as needed to fit your household.)

Bringing a puppy into your home is an exciting adventure — and consistency will be your best friend. Puppies thrive on predictability. A steady routine helps them learn faster, feel secure, and build good habits that last a lifetime.

This example schedule follows a natural rhythm for a young puppy’s day, balancing potty training, rest, play, and mental enrichment. Feel free to mix and match activities to suit your schedule.


Morning Routine

5:00 a.m. — Early Potty Break & Back to Bed
Start the day with a quick potty break, then return the puppy to the crate to rest until morning.
Why: Puppies’ bladders are still developing, so early morning potty breaks prevent accidents.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy struggles to settle back down, keep lights low and limit interaction — treat it like a calm, nighttime routine, not playtime.


6:30 a.m. — Potty Break & Loose Leash Walking Practice
Carry the puppy to the designated potty area and calmly wait for them to go. Offer soft verbal praise (“potty potty!”) as they begin and again when they finish.
Afterward, clip on the leash and practice short Loose Leash Walking sessions — just a few steps at a time.
Why: Consistency builds a clear potty routine and helps prevent accidents in the house. Early leash practice sets the foundation for calm walking.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy doesn’t go after 10–15 minutes, calmly return them to the crate and try again in 20 minutes. Avoid extended play until after they’ve gone potty.


6:45 a.m. — Breakfast & Training Games
Use breakfast as training rewards. Practice simple exercises like recall (“come”), “find it,” or a few leash walking steps. Keep sessions to 1–2 minutes per skill.
Why: Training during mealtime boosts focus and makes learning part of the daily routine.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy loses focus, reduce distractions or use higher-value treats. Shorten the session rather than repeating cues too often.


8:00 a.m. — Potty Break & Crate Rest
Offer another potty break before placing the puppy in their crate for rest. Cover the crate lightly and play calming music or white noise.
Why: Teaches independence and helps the puppy learn to self-soothe.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy cries, ensure they don’t need to potty again, then wait for short moments of quiet before offering reassurance. Reward calmness, not barking.


Mid-Morning Routine

10:00 a.m. — Potty Break & Play Session
Take the puppy to potty, then enjoy a short, structured play session. This might include tug, trading toys, or short fetch games.
Why: Controlled play teaches impulse control and strengthens the bond between you and your puppy.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy becomes nippy or overstimulated, switch to a calm activity like a sniff game or a short leash walk indoors.


11:00 a.m. — Potty Break & Nap Time
Offer another potty break before placing the puppy back in the crate for a mid-morning nap.
Why: Young puppies need 16–18 hours of sleep per day to grow and process learning.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy resists napping, use a covered crate, a chew toy, and calming background noise to encourage rest.


Daytime Routine

1:00 p.m. — Potty Break & Reinforce Calm Entries/Exits
Take a potty break and practice calm behavior while clipping on and removing the leash.
Why: Builds impulse control and helps the puppy learn that the leash doesn’t always mean high excitement.
Troubleshooting: Wait for calmness before opening the door — patience now prevents leash reactivity later.


1:15 p.m. — Training & Field Trip (Carried)
Use part of lunch for short training sessions like recall or “touch.” Then, if safe, carry the puppy or use a carrier for a short field trip — watching traffic, hearing sounds, or sitting outside a café.
Why: Gentle exposure builds confidence and prevents future fears.
Troubleshooting: Keep experiences positive and short. If the puppy seems unsure (tail tucked, ears back), increase distance and pair the moment with treats.


2:30 p.m. — Potty & Quiet Time in Crate
After returning home, allow a potty break, then crate for a nap.
Why: Teaches transitions between activity and calm — an essential skill for good behavior.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy struggles to settle, add a frozen chew or snuffle mat in the crate.


Afternoon Routine

4:30 p.m. — Potty Break & Short Walk or Training Refresher
Offer a potty break followed by leash walking or a few short commands like “sit” and “stay.”
Why: Reinforces focus and manners after napping.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy is distracted, move training indoors or reduce distractions.


4:45 p.m. — Dinner & Interactive Play
Use dinner as part of a training or enrichment session. Introduce new textures, toys, or mild challenges like a puzzle feeder.
Why: Turns meals into learning opportunities and prevents boredom.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy isn’t eating, make mealtime calmer or hand-feed small portions during training games.


5:00–7:30 p.m. — Evening Engagement & Alone Time
Allow structured play, short field trips, or relaxed family time. Keep the puppy awake so they’re ready to sleep overnight.
Why: Builds resilience, confidence, and social comfort.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy becomes overtired (zoomies, biting), end play early, potty, and crate for a brief rest before resuming.


Evening & Bedtime Routine

7:30 p.m. — Potty & Bedtime Wind-Down
Offer a potty break, then quiet time with a chew or gentle massage before bedtime.
Why: Creates a calm association with nighttime and signals the day is ending.
Troubleshooting: Avoid rough play or stimulation before bed — it can delay sleep.


10:00 p.m. — Final Potty & Overnight Crate Time
Give one last potty opportunity before settling the puppy into the crate for the night.
Why: Prevents overnight accidents and strengthens the habit of holding it until morning.
Troubleshooting: If accidents occur, adjust timing (earlier dinner, more frequent evening breaks).


Key Takeaways

  • Consistency builds confidence. Keep routines predictable but flexible to fit your lifestyle.

  • Balance activity and rest. Overtired puppies struggle to learn; rested puppies are focused and calm.

  • Use every moment as a lesson. From potty time to dinner, structure creates success.

  • Stay patient and positive. Every puppy learns at their own pace — celebrate progress, not perfection.

Was this routine helpful for you and your puppy? We’d love to hear how it’s going! Be sure to follow our YouTube channel for step-by-step training videos and real-life puppy progress stories, or check out our Instagram page for daily tips, behind-the-scenes moments, and adorable student updates.

If you’d like personalized guidance or want to learn more about our training programs, contact Canine Learning Academy today — we’re here to help you and your pup build confidence, connection, and lifelong skills together.

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Canine Learning Academy team
Hi, I’m Yo,

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