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Expert Trick: Fetch me a drink from the refrigerator

The Trick:

You tell your dog to “Bring me a drink.”

They head to the kitchen and come back with a cold one just for you.

Your dog will open the fridge, pick up a drink, hold the bottle, carry it, and deliver it to your hand.

Watch the step-by-step tutorial video tutorial here: Watch Now!

The Individual Skills Required:

  • Pull (a rope) to open the fridge
  • Push with nose or paw to close the door
  • Pick up and hold an object
  • Walk and hold the object
  • Retrieve to you and place in hand
  • Be able to do skills at a distance from the handler
  • (Possibly even with the handler out of sight)

Before you start this trick

Choose your setup. You may want to consider using a mini fridge, cooler or pantry door for this trick to prevent your dog from helping themselves to your main fridge.

Example of a mini frig with a handle: Click Here

Aim for something that is at an appropriate height for your breed of dog and easy to access.

This trick has many components, so remember to go slow, train each trick individually and be patient. Only progress onto the next step when you’re confident in your dog’s understanding.

Keep training sessions short and fun, with plenty of rewards.

Step 1: Open the Refrigerator Door

Bentley pulls a rope tied to the handle of the refrigerator to open the door

Criteria: Pull on a rope to open the door

First, we want our dogs to pull a rope or toy. 

Choose a soft toy long enough to tie onto the door eventually. If your dog already loves to play tug, this will be easy. 

Start by playing tug in the room near the fridge, really encouraging your dog to pull on the rope or toy.

Alternatively, if your dog doesn’t love to play tug, they may understand the cue “Pull,” which means hold an object in your mouth and pull backward.

Once your dog is happily tugging and pulling on the toy, you can attach it to the fridge handle. Encourage your dog to interact with the toy when it’s on the door. You may need to give the toy a little wiggle to get them to play when it isn’t directly in your hand.

Mark “Yes” (or click) and reward for any interaction with the toy initially when it’s on the door, then gradually build up to having them pull back on it.

Get lots of repetitions of any interaction of pulling on the toy or rope, even if the door doesn’t yet open.

Over time you can increase your criteria to get your dog to pull harder and then Mark “yes” (or click) when they have pulled hard enough to open the door.

Top Tip: Keep the rope at your dog’s height so they keep all paws on the floor and make it easier to tug.

Consider the flooring; you may want to put a mat in front of the fridge to get more grip as your dog pulls back on the toy to avoid slipping.

Step 2: Fetch the Drink (eventually from the refrigerator)

Bentley fetches a water bottle out of the refrigerator and drops into the hand.

Criteria: Pick up a toy or water bottle and bring to me

Starting in the room next to the fridge, in a separate training session from “pull a toy,” our next criteria is to encourage our dogs to pick up a toy or object and bring it to us.

If your dog understands how to pick up and hold any object, you’ll find this step easy.

Begin by throwing a toy or object, and if your dog already understands the cue “fetch” or “bring,” you can use that to indicate that you want them to pick up the item and bring it to you.

If your dog doesn’t understand yet, you can check out the “fetch” tutorial video to teach your dog to pick up objects and bring them to you (also known as retrieving): Watch the Step-by-step Video.

When your dog is confident in picking up objects, you may want to try different items, like an empty water bottle. This can be tricky for some dogs because plastic bottles are crunchy and crinkly, which can be fun for dogs to chew down on. To make it easy for your dog, you could wrap some fabric or a soft foam cup holder to make it easier to hold.

Mark “yes” (or click) whenever your dog picks up and holds the bottle. Call them and praise them to encourage them to bring it to you. Don’t worry too much if they don’t deliver the bottle straight to your hand. Mark and reward for any attempt towards the end goal.

Once your dog picks up the bottle and brings it to you, place the bottle in the fridge and encourage your dog to “fetch” it to you. 

Top tip 1: make sure the rest of the fridge is empty so there are no other distractions and position yourself nearby to make it easy for them to get the trick right.

Start off by asking your dog to pick up the bottle from the door and pass it straight to you by staying close.

Over several training sessions, you can increase the difficulty by building up the distance between yourself and the fridge.

Do you find your dog enjoys retrieving more when the object is thrown and moving so they get to chase it? 

Some dogs can find retrieving more challenging when the object is stationary because they know to chase the toy and stop it from moving by grabbing it. If this sounds familiar, check out our video tutorial to teach your dog to “fetch”: Download Fetch Step by Step Handout.


Top tip 2: If your dog struggles with plastic bottles, it’s perhaps because they find the noise or texture a little weird, or they enjoy the chomping and crinkling. One suggestion is to try other toys and objects first to be picked up from the fridge and train the “hold a plastic bottle” separately away from this exercise to avoid confusion.

Step 3: Combining the Skills

Criteria: Open the fridge, pick up the drink and bring it to me

When your dog has a thorough understanding of the individual components, 

1. Open the fridge door 

2. Pick up the bottle and bring it to me

Most dogs are quick to chain these skills together.

Set up your training space before you bring the dog into the room or have them in a crate whilst you get ready. 

Place your bottle in the fridge and close the door, then make sure you have the rope or toy attached to the door that your dog has previously practiced with.

When your dog comes into the space, use a physical cue such as motioning your hand towards the fridge to indicate to them you want them to open the door.

Once your dog has opened the door, wait and see if they automatically go to pick up the drink too. Your dog may be awaiting the click and reward for opening the door. 

If this happens, you could gesture towards the bottle to indicate the second component, “pick up the bottle and bring it to me.”

Reward any attempts that your dog makes.

Don’t worry if they get it wrong, and maybe the bottle doesn’t come to your hand initially. Remember that you’ve increased your criteria here by asking for two behaviors, and when we increase the criteria it becomes harder for the dog so it’s ok to reward for lower expectations.

Make sure they’re getting loads of feedback with marking and rewarding their attempts before expecting the chain to be perfect.

Top tip: position yourself near the fridge door to make the retrieve part of the trick easier and set your dog up for success.

Top tip 2: If your dog doesn’t automatically go to look for the bottle in the fridge after they have opened the door, you could try marking them for opening the door and rewarding them by placing the treats in the fridge. That way, they learn that once the door is open, to put their head in the fridge because that is where the reward has come from previously.
Top tip 3: After you’ve marked or clicked for the successful chained behavior, reward by throwing the treat away from the fridge. Whilst your dog is away getting the food you can pop the bottle back in the fridge and close the door to set up for the next rep.

Step 4: Add your New Cue, “Bring (or fetch) me a Drink”

Criteria: Hear the cue, open the fridge, pick up the drink and bring it to me

Now that your dog is successfully opening the fridge door, picking up the drink and bringing it to you we want to add in our New Cue “Bring me a drink” to the chained behaviors.

Only add in your new cue once your dog has had lots of successful repetitions of the chained behaviors outlined in step 1-3.

To add a new cue, you will say the phrase that will trigger the behaviors, followed by the previous cue you had been using to indicate to the dog to pull on the rope and start the chain.

Your existing cue may be to gesture towards the fridge door to indicate to the dog to pull the rope, or whilst your dog goes through multiple repetitions, as they move towards the first step, you can say your new verbal cue.

Over time with each repetition, your dog will learn to associate hearing the phrase “bring me a drink” to indicate to them to start the chain of behaviors.

Top tip: Once your dog is consistently following the cue, opening the door, picking up the drink, and bringing it to you, now you can increase your criteria.

This may be that you start to move further away from the fridge to add in the distance between yourself, the dog, and where the tricks take place.

With each repetition, you could move a step further away or make it more challenging by turning your back to the fridge or sitting in a chair.

Then you can move the chair further away or build up to being out of sight entirely whilst your dog performs the trick.

Step 5: Close the Door

Bentley targets his paw to the refrigerator to close the door

Criteria: Use your nose or paw to close the fridge door

If your dog already understands to target with their nose or paw, you’ll progress through this step quickly.

You could use a magnet or sticky Post-it note to indicate to the dog where you want them to paw.

Starting with the fridge door closed, place your sticky note on the fridge and cue your dog to “paw” the target area.

Mark “yes” (or click) everytime they touch the target area with their paw.

Keep the target area at an easy height for your breed of dog.

After several repetitions with the door closed, open it slightly and again cue your dog to target the sticky note with their paw so that now they will close the door.

With each successful repetition, you may want to open the door wider to encourage your dog to move around with the door and paw enough times or hard enough to close the door.

Once your dog is successfully pawing at the door to close it, you can add in your new cue, “close the door,” with each repetition.

The new cue is “close the door,” old cue is “paw”.

As with the above training, you can then increase the difficulty of the trick by moving yourself further away from the fridge so your dog learns to independently head back to the fridge and close the door when they hear the cue “close the door” after they have brought you a drink.

Top tip 1: If your dog is new to targeting a magnet or sticky note but they are confident giving you a paw to hand, you can start by having the target object in your hand and ask for a paw. Then you may move your hand with the object to new places, such as the floor in front of you, and gradually move nearer to the fridge. 

Eventually, you can place the back of your hand on the fridge door and again go for several repetitions of asking for a paw still to hand with the magnet or note inside.

Over time you’ll be able to place the object your dog is targeting on to the fridge and remove your hand. 

Top tip 2: If you’re using a sticky note, you can make it smaller and smaller, so once your dog is confident with the new cue, they eventually won’t need the target object. Instead, they will understand that the new cue “close the door” means the action of closing the fridge door and not searching for the target object.

Need a little help?

Do you have questions and need help with your trick training?

Jump to our free training group. Join the Facebook Trick Group for expert advice, tips, and feedback.
Give this trick a try, and leave us a comment to share how you got along.

Book a free discovery call to discuss the best option for you. 

Ready to dive into your positive training journey with your puppy? Check out our Puppy Group Classes, taught in-person in Huntington Beach and virtually (Click Here)

Book a Call with our Certified Dog Trainers, who specialize in young puppy training.

Click Here

Creating a Puppy Schedule and Routine: The Secret to a Happy, Well-Behaved Dog

Bringing home a new puppy is one of the most exciting — and overwhelming — experiences you’ll ever have. Between potty training, naps, playtime, and socialization, your puppy depends on you to bring structure to their brand-new world. One of the most powerful tools you can give your pup from day one is a consistent schedule and routine.

What Is a Puppy Schedule?

A puppy schedule is a predictable daily rhythm that includes set times for meals, potty breaks, naps, play, training, and bedtime. Just like children, puppies thrive on knowing what to expect. A routine helps them learn faster, feel secure, and settle into family life with confidence.

A typical day for a young puppy might include:

  • Morning potty break right after waking up

  • Breakfast, followed by a short play session or walk

  • Nap time in their crate or pen

  • Midday potty break and lunch

  • Play, training, or socialization time

  • Dinner and evening potty walk

  • Quiet time and bedtime routine around the same time each night

Why It’s Important

A consistent routine teaches your puppy how to behave by helping them predict what happens next.

  • Supports house training: Predictable potty breaks reduce accidents.

  • Encourages calm behavior: Regular naps prevent overstimulation and biting from fatigue.

  • Builds confidence: Puppies feel safer when life feels predictable.

  • Makes training easier: When puppies know when to rest, eat, and play, they can focus better during lessons.

  • Strengthens your bond: Daily repetition builds trust and communication between you and your puppy.

When routines are inconsistent, puppies can become anxious, overexcited, or confused about expectations. A structured day sets the foundation for a lifetime of good habits and harmony.

How to Create a Routine That Works

  1. Start Simple – Map out your day and match your puppy’s needs to your lifestyle. Puppies under 5 months need to go potty every 2–3 hours, nap often, and have short bursts of activity.

  2. Use Visual Reminders – Write your puppy’s schedule on a whiteboard, planner, or fridge chart. Consistency among family members is key.

  3. Anchor Key Moments – Keep wake-up, mealtime, and bedtime consistent. Build everything else (training, play, walks) around those anchor points.

  4. Balance Activity and Rest – Puppies need 16–18 hours of sleep per day! Alternate 30–60 minutes of awake time with naps.

  5. Include Mental Enrichment – Add puzzle feeders, sniff walks, and short training games into the day to meet your puppy’s need for mental stimulation.

  6. Adjust as They Grow – Your schedule should evolve as your puppy matures. Potty breaks get longer, naps get shorter, and more training time can be added.

Daily Routine Ideas for Your Puppy

Mix & Match Activities to Fit Your Schedule

Every puppy — and every family — has a different rhythm. The key to raising a happy, confident dog is giving your puppy the right balance of physical exercise, mental stimulation, social experiences, and training. Think of these categories as puzzle pieces that make up your puppy’s ideal day.

You don’t need to do everything every day. Instead, pick one or two ideas from each category and rotate them throughout the week. The variety keeps your puppy engaged and prevents boredom, frustration, and unwanted behaviors.


1. Physical Enrichment

Helps burn energy, build coordination, and satisfy natural instincts like chasing, tugging, and digging.

  • Fetch

  • Play date with other dogs

  • Flirt pole play

  • Urban agility (using benches, curbs, playgrounds, etc.)

  • Hide & seek

  • Swimming

  • Sniffari (a slow, sniff-focused walk)

  • Digging area or sandbox

  • Tug

  • Frisbee

  • Soccer with a soft ball

How to use: Schedule one or two physical activities during your puppy’s awake times. Keep sessions short and fun (5–10 minutes for young pups). Physical play helps your dog release energy appropriately so they’re calm at home.


2. Mental Enrichment

Exercises your puppy’s brain and builds problem-solving skills — a tired mind is a happy mind.

  • Tearing up a box

  • Ball pit fun

  • Food puzzles or snuffle mats

  • ACE Free Work (choice-based exploration)

  • Scavenger hunt for treats

  • Treat Tournament

  • Muffin tin game

  • Frozen Kong or lick mat

  • Trash bag game

  • Paper towel roll challenge

  • DIY enrichment crafts

How to use: Offer one or two mental games daily, especially when you can’t provide as much physical activity. These activities reduce frustration, promote independence, and make alone time more peaceful.

To learn more about enrichment, check out our blog- CLICK HERE


3. Training (During Meal Time)

Turns everyday feeding into mini lessons that teach manners and focus.

  • Loose leash walking position

  • Harness & leash on/off practice

  • Collar/harness grab

  • Recall (“Come!”)

  • “Go to…” (place, mat, crate, etc.)

  • “Get” or “Find it” games

  • “Which one?” choice games

  • Target training (hand, object, or mat)

  • Trick training

  • Polite greetings

  • Sit, down, stay, settle on a mat

  • Front & back door manners

  • Paws up / paws off

  • Paw target to hand or object

  • Shake, pull it, take it, drop, leave it

How to use: Use a portion of your puppy’s meal as rewards during 5–10-minute sessions. Training through mealtime builds focus, patience, and communication while keeping your puppy mentally sharp.


4. Socialization & Exposure

Builds confidence and prevents fear during the critical early learning window (8–16 weeks, and beyond).

  • Explore new environments

  • Make a DIY obstacle course at home

  • Visit public places (store fronts, sidewalks)

  • Play sound desensitization tracks

  • Introduce water in a positive way

  • Gentle grooming and handling

  • Cooperative care practice (touching paws, ears, teeth)

  • Visit parks or sit near dog parks (observe only)

  • Field trip to a school or café

  • Car rides

  • Watch kids playing (at a safe distance)

  • Grocery or hardware store parking lots

How to use: Choose calm, positive environments and keep sessions short. Always pair new experiences with treats and praise. The goal is to create good first impressions, not to overwhelm.

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Puppy Socialization

Early Puppy Socialization Is Essential—not just a nice-to-have, but a critical piece of raising a well-adjusted, confident dog. In fact, most behavior issues seen in adult dogs stem from missed or incomplete socialization during the early weeks of life.

If you’re a new puppy parent, it’s important to understand why early puppy socialization is essential to your dog’s lifelong health and happiness. From preventing fear-based behaviors to building emotional resilience, early puppy socialization is essential for setting your pup up for success in our human world.

To learn more about Puppy Socialization, check out this blog.
CLICK HERE

5. Training Concepts to Reinforce Every Day

These are the core emotional skills that shape a dog’s behavior for life.

  • Confidence

  • Calmness

  • Flexibility (adapting to change)

  • Focus

  • Independence

  • Proximity (comfort staying near you)

  • Self-control

  • Problem solving

How to use: Every game, walk, or cuddle time is an opportunity to strengthen one of these concepts. For example, waiting at the door teaches self-control, sniff walks build confidence, and trick training improves focus.


Putting It All Together

Build your puppy’s day like this:

  • Morning: Potty break, breakfast training, short walk

  • Midday: Nap, mental enrichment game, social outing

  • Afternoon: Physical play, crate rest, calm chew

  • Evening: Short training session, dinner, quiet cuddle time

Consistency matters, but flexibility keeps it fun. As your puppy grows, you’ll notice what type of activities tire them out most — that’s your cue to adjust and evolve their schedule.

Sample Daily Puppy Schedule & Routine

(Use this as a flexible guide and adjust as needed to fit your household.)

Bringing a puppy into your home is an exciting adventure — and consistency will be your best friend. Puppies thrive on predictability. A steady routine helps them learn faster, feel secure, and build good habits that last a lifetime.

This example schedule follows a natural rhythm for a young puppy’s day, balancing potty training, rest, play, and mental enrichment. Feel free to mix and match activities to suit your schedule.


Morning Routine

5:00 a.m. — Early Potty Break & Back to Bed
Start the day with a quick potty break, then return the puppy to the crate to rest until morning.
Why: Puppies’ bladders are still developing, so early morning potty breaks prevent accidents.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy struggles to settle back down, keep lights low and limit interaction — treat it like a calm, nighttime routine, not playtime.


6:30 a.m. — Potty Break & Loose Leash Walking Practice
Carry the puppy to the designated potty area and calmly wait for them to go. Offer soft verbal praise (“potty potty!”) as they begin and again when they finish.
Afterward, clip on the leash and practice short Loose Leash Walking sessions — just a few steps at a time.
Why: Consistency builds a clear potty routine and helps prevent accidents in the house. Early leash practice sets the foundation for calm walking.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy doesn’t go after 10–15 minutes, calmly return them to the crate and try again in 20 minutes. Avoid extended play until after they’ve gone potty.


6:45 a.m. — Breakfast & Training Games
Use breakfast as training rewards. Practice simple exercises like recall (“come”), “find it,” or a few leash walking steps. Keep sessions to 1–2 minutes per skill.
Why: Training during mealtime boosts focus and makes learning part of the daily routine.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy loses focus, reduce distractions or use higher-value treats. Shorten the session rather than repeating cues too often.


8:00 a.m. — Potty Break & Crate Rest
Offer another potty break before placing the puppy in their crate for rest. Cover the crate lightly and play calming music or white noise.
Why: Teaches independence and helps the puppy learn to self-soothe.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy cries, ensure they don’t need to potty again, then wait for short moments of quiet before offering reassurance. Reward calmness, not barking.


Mid-Morning Routine

10:00 a.m. — Potty Break & Play Session
Take the puppy to potty, then enjoy a short, structured play session. This might include tug, trading toys, or short fetch games.
Why: Controlled play teaches impulse control and strengthens the bond between you and your puppy.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy becomes nippy or overstimulated, switch to a calm activity like a sniff game or a short leash walk indoors.


11:00 a.m. — Potty Break & Nap Time
Offer another potty break before placing the puppy back in the crate for a mid-morning nap.
Why: Young puppies need 16–18 hours of sleep per day to grow and process learning.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy resists napping, use a covered crate, a chew toy, and calming background noise to encourage rest.


Daytime Routine

1:00 p.m. — Potty Break & Reinforce Calm Entries/Exits
Take a potty break and practice calm behavior while clipping on and removing the leash.
Why: Builds impulse control and helps the puppy learn that the leash doesn’t always mean high excitement.
Troubleshooting: Wait for calmness before opening the door — patience now prevents leash reactivity later.


1:15 p.m. — Training & Field Trip (Carried)
Use part of lunch for short training sessions like recall or “touch.” Then, if safe, carry the puppy or use a carrier for a short field trip — watching traffic, hearing sounds, or sitting outside a café.
Why: Gentle exposure builds confidence and prevents future fears.
Troubleshooting: Keep experiences positive and short. If the puppy seems unsure (tail tucked, ears back), increase distance and pair the moment with treats.


2:30 p.m. — Potty & Quiet Time in Crate
After returning home, allow a potty break, then crate for a nap.
Why: Teaches transitions between activity and calm — an essential skill for good behavior.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy struggles to settle, add a frozen chew or snuffle mat in the crate.


Afternoon Routine

4:30 p.m. — Potty Break & Short Walk or Training Refresher
Offer a potty break followed by leash walking or a few short commands like “sit” and “stay.”
Why: Reinforces focus and manners after napping.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy is distracted, move training indoors or reduce distractions.


4:45 p.m. — Dinner & Interactive Play
Use dinner as part of a training or enrichment session. Introduce new textures, toys, or mild challenges like a puzzle feeder.
Why: Turns meals into learning opportunities and prevents boredom.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy isn’t eating, make mealtime calmer or hand-feed small portions during training games.


5:00–7:30 p.m. — Evening Engagement & Alone Time
Allow structured play, short field trips, or relaxed family time. Keep the puppy awake so they’re ready to sleep overnight.
Why: Builds resilience, confidence, and social comfort.
Troubleshooting: If the puppy becomes overtired (zoomies, biting), end play early, potty, and crate for a brief rest before resuming.


Evening & Bedtime Routine

7:30 p.m. — Potty & Bedtime Wind-Down
Offer a potty break, then quiet time with a chew or gentle massage before bedtime.
Why: Creates a calm association with nighttime and signals the day is ending.
Troubleshooting: Avoid rough play or stimulation before bed — it can delay sleep.


10:00 p.m. — Final Potty & Overnight Crate Time
Give one last potty opportunity before settling the puppy into the crate for the night.
Why: Prevents overnight accidents and strengthens the habit of holding it until morning.
Troubleshooting: If accidents occur, adjust timing (earlier dinner, more frequent evening breaks).


Key Takeaways

  • Consistency builds confidence. Keep routines predictable but flexible to fit your lifestyle.

  • Balance activity and rest. Overtired puppies struggle to learn; rested puppies are focused and calm.

  • Use every moment as a lesson. From potty time to dinner, structure creates success.

  • Stay patient and positive. Every puppy learns at their own pace — celebrate progress, not perfection.

Was this routine helpful for you and your puppy? We’d love to hear how it’s going! Be sure to follow our YouTube channel for step-by-step training videos and real-life puppy progress stories, or check out our Instagram page for daily tips, behind-the-scenes moments, and adorable student updates.

If you’d like personalized guidance or want to learn more about our training programs, contact Canine Learning Academy today — we’re here to help you and your pup build confidence, connection, and lifelong skills together.

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Canine Learning Academy team
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